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daviswebb

Makeup for Professional Artists, Fashionistas and Makeup Junkies

Hello folks, time to update. Look for alot more updates in the months to come. I was asked by one of you to provide some advaned makeup tips for the upcoming party season. Here is the first of my updates, On Trend.

Lets get some basics down first. This winter, what I am doing, is going with flawless matte features. I am holding back on the luminosity on the foundation and focussing on the lips and a luminous eye.

To start, I use Smashbox face primer, and undereye primer. If there are bags or wrinkles, I use the new Smashbox Hydrating Under Eye primer, it provides a temporary moisture boost and really calms and sooths the eye area. Next, I correct any blemishes with Camera Ready concealer or High Definition. Remember to use a stippling action when applying concealer and then feather the edges out with a small synthetic brush. Layer the concealer carefully, adding layers until you get the coverage you want.

Next I use my Kett airbrush foundation applied with an airbrush or a synthetic foundation brush. Lately I am using the MAC foundation brushes, I have 4 of them and each has its own specialty. The two I use most are the flat foundation brush and the Kabuki brush. More about using the synthetic Kabuki brush later! When I get to the area I have concealed, I STIPPLE the foundation on that area, putting down layer after layer until the skin is flawless. When I work for Smashbox, I use their Studio Skin foundation for this. Finish with a dusting of colored pressed powder, I use something called Air Care, a powder I bought from LA. It is very light and provides a flawless matte finish suitable for close ups.

Now about foundation application this season. I am using two colors of foundation for each model. I start with a slightly darker color than their own skin tone on the cheeks blend that backward toward the ear. Then I take a foundation in their own natural skin tone and finish the rest of the face. To do this, I start with bringing up a big FAN SHAPED foundation sweep along the nose, up to the forehead and sweeping outward in both directions, so the lighter tone looks like you drew a palm tree in the center of the face. Then I blend that upward into the hairline. Now, for the lower face, I STIPPLE the lighter foundation over the skin, then I use the Kabuki brush to feather it to an even blend with the skin. The result is a highlighting of the center of the face and an emphasis on the cheekbones. At this time, the model will not need any blush, the difference in  foundation color will bring out the cheekbones, and look freshly bronzed, with a MATTE bronzer. I dont need to use bronzer this way. I have the cheek definition I need. Note that I DO NOT CONTOUR under the cheekbones for this look. I let the 2 foundations work their magic. So use TWO FOUNDATION colors, and make it MATTE with powder and blend to perfection. Now we have a dynamic bone structure.

Lips

This season, deep violets are IN! All shades of lavender, violet, and their related colors are the lip of choice. However, some women look rather scary with dark purple lips, it just doesnt work on them. But do give it a try first and wear it a bit before you pass judgement. Its the hottest trend in lips right now. If there is an issue with the intensity of the color I use a new trick taught to me by Shawn H., lead trainer for Smashbox Canada. The produce a lipstick called POUT, which is a soft, sexy pink. Now, if you put this on thick, it has a great “stripper” look, very reminiscent of early Pam Anderson. But, if you put it on in a thin layer, it works as a color blocker, ie. it cancels the lip color and brings the lips to a natural look. This lipstick or its equivalent from any line, is then coated with a layer of Smashbox reflection clear lip gloss.

Now, if the girl wants another color, like Patriotic Red, and wants to go Marilyn Monroe for Christmas parties, we use the POUT lipstick first after coloring in the lips with red lip liner. That would be the Dark in Smashbox, but any good red that flows on is fine. Smashbox isnt red, but its dark, as its name suggests, and works great for both red and violet lips. So to review, we use a lip blocking natural pink shade FIRST, and then apply our desired color OVER TOP of that layer. This leads to a flawless lip.

In order to produce a pout, I use two tricks. First, I only apply the High Shine Reflection lip gloss over the center of the lips, not the outer 2/3. Then I use some brown eyeshadow under the lower lip, in the natural space there, and blend well with a Q Tip. This produces two effects, the center of the lips comes forward with the gloss and the lower lip is doubled in size by creating a fake shadow underneath it.

Next blog post will be on dazzling Christmas eye looks. Happy face painting!

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